When investigating strange noises in a Volkswagen,
you can narrow down the cause not only by examining the sound quality but also by identifying the part of the car where the noise is coming from.
This page categorizes abnormal noises into the following seven areas, and summarizes the most common causes, whether the vehicle can be driven, the urgency of the problem, and an estimate of repair costs
for each .
If you’re unsure, start by identifying the area.
The introduction to abnormal noise diagnosis
Search by sound quality
(clack/rumbling/high-pitched/rumble)
Search by situation
(low speed/high speed/starting/deceleration/steps)
Search by part
(engine/suspension/A/C/drive system)
👉See the comprehensive abnormal noise diagnosis page
- By body part: Identify the cause of abnormal noise in 7 categories
- Abnormal noises in the suspension (clunking/rumble/creaking/banging)
- Abnormal brake noise (squeaking/grunting)
- Abnormal noises around the engine (rattling/rattle/squeak)
- Unusual noises from the air conditioner (fluttering/rumbling/hissing)
- Exhaust/turbo system (whistle/rattling/clang)
- Interior/body (vibration/creaking/whispering)
- Tires and wheels (Shasha/Go)
- The next step in abnormal noise diagnosis
- Details of defects by vehicle type
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
By body part: Identify the cause of abnormal noise in 7 categories
- Suspension (suspension, bushings, hubs)
- Brake parts (pads, rotors, calipers)
- Engine parts (mounts, accessories, belts)
- Air conditioner (blower, flap, motor)
- Exhaust and turbo systems (catalysts, heat shields, turbos)
- Interior and body (lining, plastic parts, moldings)
- Tires and wheels (wear, deformation, air pressure)
If you keep these seven things in mind, you will be able to pinpoint the source of 80% of abnormal noises.
Abnormal noises in the suspension (clunking/rumble/creaking/banging)
This is the most common question we receive about VW.
It is the foundation of driving and steering, so it is also important from a safety perspective.
| Main causes | Common sounds | Urgency | Whether or not driving is possible | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| stabilizer link | Quietly | Medium | Can be driven | 15,000 to 30,000 yen |
| Lower arm bush | rumbling | Medium | Can be driven | 30,000 to 80,000 yen |
| shock absorber | Creaking/Banging | Medium to high | Possible (Caution: May worsen) | 80,000 to 150,000 yen |
| hub bearing | Go/Rumble | high | NG | 30,000 to 60,000 yen |
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👉 List of articles about causes of abnormal noises in the suspension and repair costs
- Low speed × suspension × creaking noise
- Low speed × suspension × tapping noise
- Low speed × suspension × rattling noise
- Low speed × suspension link × rattle noise
- Curve × Undercarriage bush × Screeching noise
- Bumps x Shocks/Bushes x Banging noise
- When driving straight × Suspension × Tapping noise
- Curves x Suspension/Hub x Rattling noise
- Bumps × Interior/Suspension × Creaking noises
Abnormal brake noise (squeaking/grunting)
Brakes are a high level of urgency .
A grinding noise can be enough to bring your car to an immediate stop.
| Main causes | sound | Urgency | Whether or not driving is possible | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pad wear | Squeak | Medium | Only close range allowed | 10,000 to 20,000 yen |
| Rotor wear | Key/Go | Medium | Possible | 20,000 to 50,000 yen |
| Pad remaining empty | Grind | high | NG | 40,000 to 100,000 yen |
| Caliper sticking | Grrr/dragging noise | high | NG | 30,000 to 60,000 yen |
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👉 List of articles about causes of brake noise and repair costs
- When decelerating × Brake × Squeaking noise
- Braking × Pads/Rotors × Squeaking noise
- Braking × Pads/calipers × Grinding noise
- When decelerating × Brake/bearing × Grinding noise
- After a puddle × Belt/brake × Squeaking noise
Abnormal noises around the engine (rattling/rattle/squeak)
There are many variations in the source of the problem,
and the urgency of each cause varies greatly.
| Main causes | sound | Urgency | Whether or not driving is possible | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mount deterioration | Rattle/Rattle | Medium | Possible | 30,000 to 60,000 yen |
| Belt tensioner | Squeak squeak | Medium | Possible (Caution: May worsen) | 20,000 to 50,000 yen |
| Alternator/auxiliary equipment | rattle | high | NG | 40,000 to 100,000 yen |
| Loose heat shield | Caracara | Medium | Possible | 10,000 to 20,000 yen |
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👉 List of articles about causes of engine noise and repair costs
- Idling × Belt area × Rattling noise
- Steering × Belt/Hydraulic × Squeaking/Grrring
- Immediately after starting × Belt/tensioner × Squeaking noise
- When starting × Engine mount × Rattle noise
- Idling × Engine mount × Rattling noise
- Accelerator pedal press × Engine/heat shield × Rattle noise
Unusual noises from the air conditioner (fluttering/rumbling/hissing)
This is a genre with strong seasonal demand.
Blower motor and flap failures are common.
| Main causes | sound | Urgency | Whether or not driving is possible | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blower fan wear | rumbling | Medium | Possible | 20,000 to 50,000 yen |
| Blower motor damage | clatter | Medium | Possible (low air volume) | 30,000 to 60,000 yen |
| Air Mix Flap | Flapping/Clacking | Medium | Possible | 10,000 to 30,000 yen |
| Refrigerant shortage/minor leak | hissing sound | Medium | Good (weak to cold) | 10,000 to 30,000 yen |
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👉 List of articles about causes of abnormal air conditioner noise and repair costs
- Rattling noise when turning on the air conditioner
- Hissing noise when air conditioner is on
- Air conditioner ON × Blower fan × Rumbling noise
- Air conditioner ON × Blower/flap × whistling noise
- Air conditioner ON × Blower motor × Rattling noise
- Air conditioner ON × Blower fan × flapping noise
Exhaust/turbo system (whistle/rattling/clang)
The sound changes depending on the load.
| Main causes | sound | Urgency | Whether or not driving is possible | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Turbo Deterioration | Vienna | high | NG | 150,000 to 300,000 yen |
| Thermal shrinkage of catalyst | Clang/Sniff | low to medium | Possible | 0 to several tens of thousands of yen |
| Loose heat shield | rattle | Medium | Possible | 10,000 to 20,000 yen |
| Exhaust leak | Crunchy/Bobobo | Medium to high | Possible (Caution: May worsen) | 30,000 to 100,000 yen |
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👉 List of articles about causes of exhaust and turbo noise and repair costs
- After engine stop × Catalyst/exhaust system × Clanging noise
- After engine is stopped × Heat shrinkage × Squeaking noise
- During acceleration × Turbo/intake system × Whinny sound
- Accelerator pedal press × turbo/fan × whirring sound
Interior/body (vibration/creaking/whispering)
Although it is not a life-threatening part of the body, it is a system that is subject to a lot of stress.
| Main causes | sound | Urgency | Whether or not driving is possible | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Interior lining resonance | Coward | low | Possible | 0 to 10,000 yen |
| Mall Weatherstrip | whistling | low | Possible | 10,000 to 20,000 yen |
| Dashboard/Resin | creak | low | Possible | 0 to 10,000 yen |
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👉 List of articles about causes of interior and body noises and repair costs
- Idling × Interior/plastic parts × Vibration noise
- High speed driving × Wind/Moor × Whistling noise
- High-speed driving × Interior trim/component resonance × Vibration noise
Tires and wheels (Shasha/Go)
This is the most common abnormal noise on the highway.
| cause | sound | Urgency | Whether or not driving is possible | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tire wear/uneven wear | Squeak squeak | Medium | Possible | 40,000 to 100,000 yen (4 bottles) |
| hub bearing | Go/Rumble | high | NG | 30,000 to 60,000 yen |
| Insufficient air pressure | Go/Rough | Medium | Possible | 0 yen (refill) |
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👉 List of articles about causes of tire and wheel noise and repair costs
- While driving × Wheel bearing × Going noise
- While driving × Tire/road surface × Rushing noise
- High speed driving × Hub bearing × Rumbling noise
The next step in abnormal noise diagnosis
If you are aware of any strange noises, reading the following in order will help you find the cause as quickly as possible.
- Summary by body part (this page)
- Details page for the relevant sound quality
- Individual symptom articles (e.g., slow speed x rattling / fast speed x whistling)
- Repair costs by part (suspension, engine, electrical)
- Structure and failure explanation for each part (technical article)
Details of defects by vehicle type
Even if the “way” of the malfunction is similar, “which model has the most common problems” differs slightly depending on the model.
The following page summarizes the trends by model and common malfunction cases among other owners.
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1. Where should I start to quickly identify the cause of the abnormal noise?
The quickest way is to first narrow down the “part where the noise is coming from.” Simply categorizing it roughly, such as the suspension, brakes, engine, or air conditioning, will greatly reduce the number of possible causes. It is quicker to look for the “location” rather than the sound quality.
Q2. What is the difference between abnormal noises that are not dangerous to drive and abnormal noises that require immediate stopping?
Heavy noises such as grinding, rattling, and roaring, especially those related to the brakes or hub bearings, are urgent and dangerous to drive. Interior rattles and light creaks are relatively safe, but abnormal noises around the suspension, brakes, and engine require prompt inspection.
Q3. Which parts tend to be expensive to repair?
The shock absorbers, turbo system, and engine accessories (alternator, etc.) tend to be expensive. Replacing all four tires or replacing the turbo is especially expensive.
Q4. Should I have it inspected even if the noise comes and goes?
Yes. The noise may disappear depending on the temperature, load, or road conditions, but this is often due to wear or loosening of parts. If the noise recurs, we recommend having it inspected as soon as possible.
Q5. Should I take my VW car’s noise problem to a dealer or a specialized workshop?
If you want to be sure it’s fixed with genuine parts, a dealer is the way to go. If you want to keep costs down and leave it to a mechanic experienced in import cars, a specialized VW workshop is the way to go. Minor noises and filters can also be fixed at a general workshop.
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