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The moment you step on the brake, you will have a “thud” and a forward-looking behavior.
If you think you stepped on it lightly but suddenly slow down, or if it “clicks” just before stopping, it will be difficult to drive and you will be anxious.
In VW, this symptom occurs not only due to the brake system, but also due to multiple factors such as suspension, mounting, and control systems. If left unattended, not only will the ride deteriorate, but there will also be a risk of a rear-end collision during traffic jams.
In this article, we will explain in an easy-to-understand manner the causes of stiffness when stopping and where to suspect.
▼Diagnostic navigation of poor driving▼
Shock occurs when starting and decelerating
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- Common symptoms
- There are four main causes.
- Cause (1): Front suspension sloppy (the most)
- Cause (2): Strong initial braking of the brake pads (sudden rise of effect)
- Cause (3): Engine and mission mount deterioration (shaking is amplified)
- Cause (4): Disturbance of idle control and DSG control (unstable near zero speed)
- Points that can be checked in DIY
- Is it okay to drive? (Urgency)
- Approximate repair cost
- Related parts to check at the same time
- Conclusion
- Defect details by vehicle type
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Common symptoms
- A light brake suddenly makes you lean forward with a “thud”
- The feeling of being pushed forward at the moment of stopping
- Does not slow down with a constant pedaling force (suddenly becomes stronger)
- Braking is especially easy at low speeds
- Symptoms tend to intensify when the air conditioner is turned on or on a slope.
- The feeling of starting to press the brake pedal is not stable
There are four main causes.
- Lack of shock damping of the front suspension
- Brake initial braking too strong (pad characteristics)
- Deterioration of engine and transmission mount (amplified forward and backward shaking)
- Disturbance of low-speed control (DSG/idle control)
Cause (1): Front suspension sloppy (the most)
When does it happen?
- The moment you step on the brake, the “nose dive” is large.
- Fluffy on steps and manholes
- Easy to wobble at high speeds
Why do I have that symptom?
The front suspension (shock absorbers) absorbs the load transfer when stepping on.
However, when it deteriorates,
- Weakened damping force
- Sink forward
- The recoil returns and shakes even more
This behavior occurs, and even a little braking becomes a strong forward leaning feeling.
If left unattended?
- Unstable posture when stopping
- Uneven tire wear
- Reduced straight-line stability
- Negative impact on braking performance itself
Cause (2): Strong initial braking of the brake pads (sudden rise of effect)
When does it happen?
- Just a little pedal kick
- The easier it is to get a clatter when idling
- It may also occur after replacing the external pad
Why do I have that symptom?
The “rise” of the braking force is different depending on the type of pad.
In particular, the friction material for European cars has a high initial braking force, and due to the influence of deterioration and temperature characteristics,
- Too effective at first
- Difficult to control afterwards
It is easy to behave in a “guts→ slowdown”.
If left unattended?
- Difficult to drive at low speeds
- Sudden braking increases and leads to tire wear
Cause (3): Engine and mission mount deterioration (shaking is amplified)
When does it happen?
- The behavior of the car body bouncing forward when the brake is turned on
- Shock increases when switching between D→R
- High idling vibration
Why do I have that symptom?
If the mount is weak, it will not be able to absorb the “load transfer” between the front and back, and
even a small brake operation will transmit it as a large body shaking.
- Sink Forward
- Return with recoil
- I feel that it is a jerk
If left unattended?
- Increased shock of stopping and starting
- Other mount breakage
- Increased load on the mission side
Cause (4): Disturbance of idle control and DSG control (unstable near zero speed)
When does it happen?
- Sudden change in engine speed just before stopping
- Idling is inconsistent
- D→ Stop → jerk at restart
Why do I have that symptom?
Just before stopping, the engine load, gear control, and throttle control change in detail.
If this is disturbed,
- Release the brake→ go sharply
- Start stepping → stop suddenly
- The rotation is too low and shakes violently.
It is easy to get “shaking and swelling unique to low speeds”.
If left unattended?
- Slow jerking worsens
- Increased launch shock
So there are three options
In such a case, there are three realistic options for VW owners:
(1) First, a mechanic who is strong in diagnosis and estimation of
imported cars will identify the cause and propose the minimum necessary.
▶ Find a VW repair shop (buv.LABO)
(2) Foreign car specialty for appraisal
maintenance history and external parts plus assessment before high-cost repairs.
▶ Free appraisal with foreign car baton
(3) “New car at a fixed price” to avoid repair cost risk Relieve
yourself from breakdown stress with a monthly fee including vehicle inspection, tax, and maintenance.
One point
Even if you think it’s okay because you can run, you’re actually holding a bomb that you don’t know when it will explode.
The sooner you move, the less cost and damage you will have.
Points that can be checked in DIY
- Fluffy on bumps → suspension
- The car body sinks forward greatly → Shock deterioration
- Speed up and down before stopping → Control system
- → mount that shakes when switching between D/R
- Sudden effect at the beginning of the brake pedal → Pad characteristics
*If you are unsure about your decision, you can safely diagnose it at a maintenance shop.
Is it okay to drive? (Urgency)
- Mild stiffness only: Allowed to run
- Large shock/large front sinking: medium to high
- Suspension missing: High (needs immediate inspection)
- Braking anxiety and abnormal noise: Very high (driving is not allowed)
When a driving problem occurs, it may be necessary to tow the truck depending on the situation.
In these cases, it may be covered by road assistance or riders of automobile insurance, so it is safe to lightly review the contents of your current contract.
If you may not have a proper understanding of the coverage, you can use a comparison service to check the coverage details and premiums of multiple companies at once. Since you can get a complete picture in a short time, many people use it for repairs and inspections.
👉 Free Car Insurance Bulk Quote Service
Approximate repair cost
| Work Description | Approximate cost |
|---|---|
| Front shock replacement | 40,000 to 80,000 yen |
| Brake pad replacement | 15,000 to 30,000 yen |
| Engine and Mission Mount Replacement | 20,000 to 50,000 yen |
| Control System Diagnostics (DSG/ECU) | 5,000 to 20,000 yen |
| Diagnosis fee | 5,000 to 10,000 yen |
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*The sooner the suspension is replaced, the easier it is to improve the ride quality.
👉Summary of maintenance and custom costs & working days of VW specialty store Nile Plus
Related parts to check at the same time
- Front shock
- Lower Arm Bushing
- Brake pads and rotors
- Engine/Mission Mounts
- DSG Learning Values
- Idle control value
▼List of individual pages about undercarriage repair and maintenance▼
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▼List of individual pages about engine and drive system repair and maintenance▼
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Conclusion
The symptoms of stiffness when stepping on the brakes are related to multiple causes, such as front suspension stiffness, brake pad characteristics, mount deterioration, and DSG and idle control disturbances.
If left unattended, even a small shaking can lead to difficulty driving and reduced hazard avoidance, so it is recommended to inspect it as soon as possible.
Even if the symptoms are similar, the causes vary from vehicle to vehicle.
Even if it is the same cuckoo, there are various causes such as suspension, pads, mounts, and control systems.
If you are unsure, it is safe to have it inspected at a maintenance shop without overdoing it.
Defect details by vehicle type
Although the “way of getting out” the defect is similar, “which model has many problems” is slightly different for each car model.
Trends by vehicle model and common breakdown cases among other owners are summarized on the following page.
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q1. Is it dangerous to get stuck when you step on the brake? Is it okay to drive?
If you lean forward lightly, you can drive, but if the shock is large, the front sinks heavily, or the suspension is missing, you need to check it as soon as possible. Especially if it comes out strongly just before stopping, it is not recommended to leave it unattended because there is a risk of a rear-end collision.
Q2. Is there a way to determine whether the suspension or brakes are the cause of the stiffness?
It is fluffy on steps, and the front sinks greatly the moment you step on it → It is likely to be on the suspension side.
The characteristics of → brake pads, which suddenly work with just a little press of the pedal and jerk only just before stopping, are questionable.
You can make a simple decision, but in the end, the inspection is certain.
Q3. The number of brakes has increased since I replaced them with external brake pads. Should I put it back?
European car pads have a strong initial braking force, and they can easily work at low speeds. In many cases, it can be improved by restoring it, but it may have deteriorated due to the condition of the rotor or the synergistic effect of suspension deterioration, so it is recommended to check it before making a decision.
Q4. Can you tell if the suspension is bad?
Typical signs include fluffiness on steps, large back-and-forth shaking when stopping, and wobble at high speeds. However, since the deterioration progresses gradually, it is often difficult to notice because you get used to it, and test runs and damping checks at the factory are the most reliable.
Q5. Can the brakes get stuck even if the mount deteriorates?
It is. If the mount is weak, it will not be able to absorb the vibration of the engine and transmission, and the forward and backward load transfer will be transmitted directly to the car body, making it easier to feel “jerking” when stopping. It is a sign that increased shock and idle vibration are also likely to occur at the same time as the D-R↔switch.



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